There are people who enjoy the whole chef’s table phenomenon, but I’m not one of them. It reminds me of rich Victorians peering at Bedlam inmates for sport – jammed among these people in a horseshoe of no escape is not my idea of fun. On one side of me is a man with BMW keys placed in front of him like the prelude to a spot of wife-swapping. He licks his plates, putting them up to his face and scouring them with a large tongue. Along from him is a trio of young, beautiful people who are almost entirely silent apart from the click and whirr of their cameras. To my left is a chap who orders a vast takeaway of hotdogs, “For dessert”.
The air reverberates with screeches of “Mugaritz” and “Brooklyn Fare” and “best scallops are from a little asador outside Bilbao“. This circle-jerk of oneupmanship makes me wish I could pull a battered black pudding out of my bag and poke it in their eyes. I feel sorry for Knappett, who introduces each course with bushy-tailed enthusiasm and real knowledge, having to perform for this self-obsessed, show-off audience of conspicuous consumers.
When he and Chang get a place with actual tables, I’ll be biting off hands for a booking. His cooking and her charm are a potent combination (although I wish she’d told me, when recommending a blissful, dry Szepsy Estate Furmint Tokaj, that it was £61). But until then, divine cooking or not, I’m out. Expensive, high-end food will always attract the tosserati, but this lot really are the sous-vided, thermomixed crème de la crème.
At the 10th annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards in London Monday night — one of the most anticipated events of the culinary calendar year — Redzepi cemented his position as the “standard bearer for the New Nordic movement” after his restaurant took home the grandiose title of best in the world.
It’s been a banner year for Redzepi. In April, the Danish chef graced the cover of Time magazine as a “Locavore Hero.” Redzepi has also been tapped to open a pop-up version of his restaurant in London to mark the Olympic Games.
Unlike the star-based Michelin system, restaurants that land on the World’s 50 Best list are voted on by a panel of more than 800 food critics, chefs and restaurateurs. The Academy is divided into 27 separate regions around the world and each region has a panel of 31 members.
Each member gets seven votes, three of which must be for restaurants outside their region. Voters must have eaten in the restaurants they nominate in the last 18 months.Under Michelin, stars are handed out based on the single opinions of inspectors, most of whom are hotel school graduates with five to 10 years of experience in the industry.
Unlike the World’s 50 Best, which takes into account the entire dining experience from décor to service, Michelin stars are awarded based solely on what’s on the plate.
Strange Random Restaurant Quote:
“The disparity between a restaurant’s price and food quality rises in direct proportion to the size of the pepper mill.” – Bryan Miller
- Danish restaurant ranked world’s best for 3rd year (sacbee.com)
- NOMA has won best restaurant in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurant awards for the third year in a row! (booktopia.com.au)
- World’s best restaurant Noma is making an appearance in London (mysterydining.com)
- World’s 50 best restaurants 2012: Noma wins for third year in a row (guardian.co.uk)
- It’s Dinner time: Heston Blumenthal’s latest hit earns a spot at the foodie top table (independent.co.uk)
- Noma retains world’s best restaurant title (abc.net.au)
- The culinary delights of Copenhagen (eatocracy.cnn.com)
- Manresa of Los Gatos makes ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list (mercurynews.com)
- The world’s 50 best restaurants (macleans.ca)